So with most stories there is a beginning, middle and end and usually they follow that order. However with this latest blog I want to start somewhere in the middle. As I have written in the past I set myself the challenge of raising money for childreach international and climbing Kilimanjaro. I made my target of £2450 and I set off on my trip on Saturday 16th June. Unfortunately I came down with a combination of problems including altitude sickness and only made it to 4400m high, before having to be evacuated off the mountain. This is hugely disappointing but in the grand scheme of things was clearly the right decision. This blog sets out an account of each day of my trip and some of the learnings from it. Hope you enjoy!
Day 1: 16th June 2012
In order to catch a cab at 2 in the morning there is a difficult decision to be made, to sleep or not to sleep! I decided that getting even a little sleep was better than nothing so grabbed a couple of hours. When I got to the meeting place the excitement throughout the group was clear and this only got higher as we met up with everyone else at Heathrow, including those we had never met from Glasgow. The rest of the day was from one plane to another, a new experience for me to be on even a short long haul flight. Then we landed in Nairobi, Kenya. As soon as landing my stomach was already playing up, not a great start if I'm honest but I was hopeful it would pass. We had a bit of an issue straight off as one of our groups luggage had not made the connection and would have to catch us up as soon as possible. We were met by some people from the tour company we were using and driven to the outskirts of the city. At this stage with very little sleep and darkness all around us there was a feeling of uncertainty. Then we go and pull down this little lane that suggests nothing good could be at the end of it. How wrong we were! We pulled into this little lodge and it was as if we had walked into a movie set, exactly as you would expect an African Adventure to start with tented rooms and glorious surroundings. What a great way to start. That night also gave us a chance to get to know our companions for the trip, from Glasgow. Because of the excitement it was another lateish night but a good sleep in a comfy bed.
Day 2: Sunday 17th June
So day 2 rolled around and this we knew would be a long one. We were to drive from Nairobi through border controls into Tanzania and down to Moshi, a town on the outskirts of Kilimanjaro National Park. Now I have to confess I made a bit of a school boy error with my expectations of this part of the trip. When you think of Africa your mind automatically goes to savannah land with all sorts of wildlife such as elephants, zebra and giraffes. This is what I was expecting to see as we drove throughout he countryside, this was added to as just after we left the lodge 3 camels were casually walking down the road we were driving down and some baboons on the side of the road as we left Nairobi. However other than the masses of donkeys, goats and cattle this was to be the only wildlife we would see on the journey. What I was struck by however was the colours, starting with the natural spectrum of red and yellow soils to greenery on plants and trees all contrasted by the brilliantly blue sky. Then there were the man made colours, starting in Nairobi with the advertising boards and continued throughout the country in every little town or village that we passed through. I learnt a lot about driving in Africa from that trip. Both Kenya and Tanzania drive on the left had side of the road, well unless the road looks better on the right or you think it's quicker than the left! And the bigger you are the more right you have to do what ever you want on the road. We arrived at Midlands Hotel on the outskirts of Moshi where we were treated to a local meal and then had our briefing for the walk ahead with our guide, Raymond. It was also this night that I started to realise something wasn't quite right and I was spending a little too much time in the toilet for my liking, but I was sure it would pass! (sorry about that pun!)
Day 3: Monday 18th June
We were up early in order for breakfast and get our briefing for the days activities from Charles from Childreach International. The plan of action was to visit a local school to see some of the work being done by the charity. The drive there was another experience not quickly forgotten, tiny roads up the foothills of Kili with shear falls on one side at times. Along the way Charles was pointing out the different crops the locals grew and sold including bananas, coffee and papaya. When we got to the school we were treated to a welcome song by the kids, absolutely amazing and we were even moved to offer a song ourselves although I'm not sure they were taken by our version of the hoky koky! We were then taken on a tour of the school by the head teacher and saw where the money we had raised was being used, this included new toilet blocks, teacher accommodation and a new classroom for the primary aged kids. We were lucky to go into a few classes and I was struck by answers to the question "what do you want to do when your older?" as the answers were all based around public service such as doctor, teacher and priest. After the tour it was play time! The entire school went mental, footballs and skipping ropes came out and everyone headed to a big field. The kids were amazing and so curious about us, so we were always surrounded. Whenever a camera came out it more likely to find a child behind the lens than in front of it! It was also cool to see the ways that although they didn't have many material goods they could find ways to entertain themselves and from that we all learnt a new dance that I'm going to try and bring to a dance floor near you soon! After the trip to the school we headed back to the hotel for dinner and reflected upon the day.
Day 4: Tuesday 19th June
The day the hike began. Surprisingly we had a bit of a lie in before grabbing breakfast and getting all of our kit to the bus. It was at this point we realised that although we had been on the foothills and driven towards it we had not actually seen the mountain, however we were not to see the peak on the first day either. We turned up at Machame gate the start point of our climb. As soon as we got off the bus we were crowded by people trying to sell us rain covers for our bags, and low and behold it the started raining! We all signed in met up with Raymond and the other guides who would walk with us. It was also at this stage that we were told that the 80 or so men standing around the gate were all our porters who would be carrying things up the mountain for us! We had a chance to grab quite a few photos at the gate before setting off up the hill. The first hour and half went pretty easily with some good sing songs and laughs with the entire group and at about 1.30 we turned a corner and saw something none of us expected; a fully laid table with chairs and food all for our lunch! It was at this stage I realised how much the porters were carrying up the hill for us, and it kinda blew my mind as I would have been happy to perch on a rock or the floor to eat, but those tables and chairs would become a real focal point for the group over he coming days. After lunch we set off again and started to climb higher headed from the gate at 1800 meters to our first camp at 3000 meters. On the way we had many stops for toilets and rest breaks and a few for wildlife sightings. The first was for a monkey high in the trees some way away, making picture taking difficult but it was quite clearly there. The second wildlife stop was for something much smaller, ants, but thousands of them all down the side of the path and in fact burrowed underneath it to the other side. On this second part of the day the group started to break up a little as people found thief stride but his created little pockets where people got to know each other well, even from different universities which was good. As we popped out of the top of the rainforest the scenery changed to much more stunted trees and it was between these that we were to camp, once we had signed into the hut to let the authorities know we had made it to that point. Our tents had already been set up for us and as we got in the porter carding our bag cane over and placed it in our tent for us and made sure all was good. It was a strange feeling that, as although I understood why the porters were carrying our stuff for us it felt bad for me to have them almost wait on me as well and felt a little bit like cheating. We sat down for our evening meal and once again my stomach was playing up a little bit but I knew the energy was needed so I wolfed down what I could and headed to the tent for sleep, which at altitude didn't seen to come as easily as at sea level.
Day 5: Wednesday 20th June
So the second day of walking started at 6 being woken with a hot cup of tea and some water for washing. Although it was early there was still excitement in the group for what the day would hold. As we headed for some food I could feel my stomach rumbling and when I agreed to plate up some of the great food that had been prepared for us I realised I would not be able to eat too much, but knowing I needed the energy I tried to get as much as I could into the body. I hoped this was just an early morning thing and that I would start to feel better throughout the day and things did start positively. The day was 2 very different parts, the morning session was very uphill taking us to around 3800 meters and this started well with different small groups for in from that of the first day. I felt good if not just a little tired but raring to go. The higher we got the more people were realising air was thinner and a few people including myself started having small headaches, and Raymond said though nothing to worry about just keep drinking water and move on. We got to lunch and sat down and again I was feeling a bit strange, had some food and my stomach started to cramp so got up had a walk around and even went for a lie down. With lunch over we all got kitted up again and set off and within about 400 meters I was unfortunately quite ill. That was a strange experience the rest of the group watching as I was sick and wondering if it was the food or altitude or something else. I had long chat with Raymond about how I was feeling and it was agreed I needed to drink even more water (I was sweating a lot more than others!). So we set off for the afternoon session that was much more undulating that the motmot with no real height climb. I started feeling really bad after the lunch incident but as the afternoon went on I became happier and happier and as we rounded a corner we saw the summit for the first time. That feeling of finally seeing our goal was great and as luck would have it the sun came out and showed it at it's best. We took advantage of it and had a group picture before strolling down the slight incline to our camp at 3800 meters. That night yet again I couldn't eat properly and his was now becoming a concern for both me and the guides. I was given some anti travel sickness pills and busied myself with the loo with a view quite a few times. I headed off to bed but was once again finding it difficult to breath and get to sleep at that camp.
Day 6: Thursday 21st June
I woke up early on the 3rd day of walking knowing this was going to be a tough one. The plan was to head to lava tower which is at 4600 meters high. Once again I struggled with breakfast only really being able to eat the fruit. We set off and despite the lack of food and sleep I felt quite good. Keeping a good pace and staying with the group. At about mid morning however things started to go wrong. I realised I was struggling to breath and my stomach pains were back. I kept going taking the occasional stop to catch my breath. I had one particularly bad moment and had to sit down for a while. After about 10 minutes of sitting Raymond came by with some other members of my group. He stopped and wanted to check my oxygen levels, which came in a 85% which is within safe limits but he was still worried as I had been sitting for a while before that reading was taken. At this stage I was on a ride at 4400 meters above sea level. After much talk with Raymond it was decided that I would take a lower pass to the next campsite and miss out lava tower. I was distraught as I had a feeling I was letting my team and everyone at home down. It was quite emotional but I agreed it was the best corse or action. Having spent a lot of time walking in the UK I have seen many different issues that can arise on a hillside such as hyperthermia, however I has never seen let alone felt a body shut down like mine did on that ridge at 4400 meters. I struggled to breathe in and out, my motor skills were really struggling to keep me walking and upright to the point in which the guides who were with me; James and Matthew, had to hold me upright as I walked to stop me toppling over. I have to say at this moment the guides and porters were amazing and did returning hey could to help me along, including running a porter to the rest of our group to pick up some lunch for me and bringing it back to where I was (unfortunately yet again I was barely able eat any of it). I got into the nights camp at 3950 meters an hour or so before the rest of the group, it was over hung by the summit and in can't have been more that a mile away from the top as the crow flys, even though it is still 2 days walking from that point. However when I first got there I found my tent and had a nap. I was shattered. Not just physically but both mentally and emotionally as well. I think at that stage I realised that I would not be going any higher, but there was still hope in the back of my mind that I would acclimatise and be able to carry on. When Raymond got into camp with the group we had a long chat and his advice was to get off the mountain, drop down to lower levels and I would feel much better. This came as a massive blow, I had worked so hard to get to that point and the last thing I wanted to hear was that I had to go down. So I did the only thing I could think of at the time; phone my mum! I had a very emotional conversation with her and after another discussion with Raymond agreed that I would stay the night with the group and head down the next morning. In hindsight even this may have been the wrong decision. I went to bed at 7.30 and slept for a straight 4 hours, waking about 11.30 in the evening. This was where my night took a massively downward turn, I was struggling to breath and ended up awake for the next 6 hours tossing and turning without being able to fall asleep until 5.30 in the morning when we were woken.
Day 7 Friday 22nd June
So having been woken up I knew what the day would consist of, farewell to the rest of the group and a long walk down off the mountain using a pass that is considered the hardest route up to the camp where I stayed. I shuffled into breakfast and once again really struggled only managing 3 bits of orange. After breakfast came a difficult goodbye including a team photo and hugs. Meagan one of the girls from our group also asked me for a passport photo that I had with me to take to the top. All of this as I'm sure you can imagine bummed me out considerably so I set off with James my guide to climb down the mountain. First we had to climb up a short incline to a hut to let the authorities know I was coming off the hill. From there we tracked spurs along the hillside dropping down paths that were extremely dangerous, with 100 meter drops on both sides. It was at this stage I realised why this was the hardest way up the mountain! The human body though is an amazing thing and has the ability to respond to the most difficult challenges and bounce back from real problems. The further I dropped down he mountain the better and better I felt. I started to really enjoy the walk, realising that I was having a completely different experience to anyone else from my group. To tell the truth, there were moments as we were trudging where it did feel a little bit like I was an explorer going through areas no one had really been before, which was quite cool. Around 12 o'clock I had a really bad period where I was absolutely shattered and was really struggling to put one foot in front of the other and at times felt like I was falling and just hoping that my feet would get in the right place before I did topple over. However I sat down for a while regathered and headed off again, and once I was back in the rainforest I was feeling slightly better and was able to go at a respectable pace for much of the rest of the walk. I reached a hut at the bottom of the mountain and had descended 2200 meters in 6 hours. I was picked up by car from the really wild travel people and after saying a massive thank you the porters who helped me I was brought back to the hotel for the night. I was feeling better but still had a churning stomach and was absolutely shattered, physically, mentally and emotionally. As I was dropped off at the hotel another group from Childreach were just arriving for their first day in Moshi. I can only imagine what I must have looked like to them as I stumbled down to the dinner area and could barely even move the food around my plate as I still could not eat properly. While at dinner I was joined on my table by some guys from the university of western Scotland; Nicky, Katelyn, Danny, Matty, Rob and Nick. They were all really nice and kept asking if I was ok and knew exactly what I was going through as they had completed the walk a week before. They were scheduled to be at the hotel the next day as well and offered for me to hang out with them if I fancied it in the morning. I thanked then and headed back to my room at about 8 pm where I preceded to pass out for a good 12 hours!
Day 8: Saturday 23rd June
Now Saturday could have been a nightmare sitting by myself all day trying to find things to do and reflecting on my trip, at the time still raw in my mind. But as I say I was lucky enough to be static at the same hotel as the guys from the university of west scotland and they really helped me get through that day. Much of it was spent playing cards and thinking about life. I was still having stomach problems so food was pretty much out of the question and close proximity to a loo was essential but all in all a great day meeting new friends.
Day 9: Sunday 24th June
I woke this morn starting to feel a bit better about life. I managed to get some food into me and had had a great nights sleep. The morning came with a set of goodbyes as the Scotland guys were heading home that morning. I also knew however that the day would end with sone hellos again as my group was due back in that evening. During he day I continued to reflect upon my experience and was convinced that I had made the right decision and that although it was difficult I had to get myself better and I could always cone back and try again another time. So I was sitting on my bed reading when 2 o'clock rolled around and I hear a car coming into the compound of the hotel and bought it must be my group. So I got up and headed outside to find a car and a person I didn't recognise, that was until Raymond looked up and said that he had brought my friend back and sure enough under a covering of dust and in places blood stood Greg. So I automatically went over to find or what had happened and he told me his story. He had just made it to the summit and turned around to come down, he got to a difficult section and due to tiredness had missed a step and started running down the mountain ending in a heap at the bottom. He had cut his head quite badly and had road rash I'm multiple places. Raymond filled in the rest for me, that he wad unconscious and so he porters had grabbed a stretcher and doing what they call the Kilimanjaro Express carried him off the mountain and straight to the hospital where he had been over night. So I helped get all his stuff into his room and let him grab a shower and resumed my wait for the rest of the group. When Greg cam out we had a but of a chat and I was relieved that he was feeling well and not to bruised and battered. We sat and chatted until the rest of the group arrived around 4 o'clock. It was great to see everyone but they all looked so different from when I had left then only 3 days before. Unsurprisingly they were all shattered so after some great hugs and welcomes they all disappeared for showers and a rest before the evening. That evening we all had dinner together for the first time in 4 days and it was really nice to catch up and hear experiences from them and be able to tell them mine. We were joined by raymond at the end of the meal who had certificates with him. This was both a great and difficult moment and I was pleased for all the guys who had made it to the top, but it really tested my resolve about whether it was the right decision for me to come down, but I had to remember that my health had to cone first and I will in my lifetime hold one of those certificates! We finished the night by watching the England football team lose on penalties to Italy into the early hours of the morning. Things felt good again!
Day 10: Monday 25th June
Day 10 saw our little group split up again as those doing independent travel were heading off on safari early in the morning whereas all those of us heading home had a day to spare. Our small group got up late and grabbed a small breakfast. We decided that we would head into Moshi for lunch and a look around. We decided to walk because although it was a 30 minute walk and people were tired we wanted to stop at an artists haven we had seen from the road and it would a good way to stretch out the legs. So off we set and within 10 minutes I'd nearly been run over twice not sure either time if it was mine or the cars fault! We got to the artists place and had a look round and zone of the work was so amazing, many of us bought some small bits and pieces for family members and friends back home. We headed into town and grabbed a quick lunch, where I managed to break a chair! Bad times! We headed back to the hotel havoc grabbed some snacks and bits from a supermarket and spent our last night in Africa chatting and playing cards.
Day 11: Tuesday 26th June
So we set off for home at around 10 O'clock and had hoped for a leisurely journey through Tanzania back to Nairobi Airport, hopefully in relatiove comfort. this was not to be the case because we were quickly joined on the bus by 2 other groups also making thier way to Kenya. I was however lucky enough (Dubious Honnor!) of sitting right up front in the passenger seat, where I continued my education in African driving! For most of the journey I kept seeing death coming flying at a high rate! we got to the boarder and were held up on the Kenyan side as the auuthorities decided that every white person at the boarder (2 or 3 different groups) must all be together and therefore had to wait for all our visas to be done together, took quite a while! We got to the airport without incident and headed upto the departure area. the flight home was a long one over night and I really struggled with the idea of sleeping in a chair. Was picked up at the airport by parents and headed home for a nice lunch followed by a good sleep :)
All in all I have had a great adventure and although I didnt make it to the top I have learnt a huge amount about myself along the way. During my reflection I have realised that there are so many different aspects to an adventure like this, and with many of them it is possible to overcome slight problems, however there are areas such as health where if it doesnt fall into place then it can have a hugh influence on the entire trip, but this doesnt mean that the trip has not been a success. I have met some great new people, tried a lot of new things and all in all had an experience that I wont be forgetting anytime soon!
I have already been asked if I would attempt the trip again, and although I dont want to make rash decisions having thought it through I would love to get to the top at some stage in my life, however having experienced much of the Kili foothills and the surrounding areas. So if I were lucky enough to be offered a similar experience in the near fututre I wouldn't hesitate and wouldlove the opportunity, but in a different location around the world maybe Napal or South America...
Finally I would just like to take this opportunity to thank all those who have supported me through this venture. From all those who donated to Childreach to send me to Africa in the first place, through to my family and Izzy for the support whilst there and since I have got back. A huge thanks must also go to the guides and porters who helped me along the way, especially Raymond the group leader and James, who walked me off the mountain. Final thanks goes to all those people who made the experience for me, the Brighton guys and gals, those from Glasgow and the University of West Scotland.
Thank you all!!!
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